Moose’s mom’s chart showing progress over time/Moose relaxing during a SA exercise!

Separation anxiety is a panic disorder associated with your dog feeling anxious, stressed, and afraid when left alone. Each dog may manifest this anxiety differently. However, the hormonal and neuro-chemical processes which occur when fear and/or anxiety are triggered means that your dog is unable to control his resulting behavior. 

Have your neighbors complained about your dog barking when you aren’t home? Do you return to find shoes, pillows, couches, or walls chewed up? Does your dog become stressed when you begin to get ready to leave the house?

These could be indicators that your pup might be suffering from separation anxiety. With true separation anxiety a dog is only comfortable with one specific person, however a more common scenario is where the dog is relaxed as long as there is (any) human accessible. This version is known as isolation distress, however also falls under the umbrella term separation anxiety.

Getting Started

To begin, the good news is that separation anxiety work is done remotely—as to be present changes the dynamics of the situation. A computer, wifi connection, and smart phone are all the tools and technology needed to get under way.

Step one is to do an assessment. This enables you to determine the starting point. It allows you to decide where to begin the training. The next step is to manage the situation so that your dog is not left alone for longer than he can handle. This is important in preventing rehearsals of the unwanted behavior while working on the problem. Finally, step three is a carefully crafted program of desensitization. To recap: 

1. 1. 1. Assess
      2. Manage
      3. Desensitize

An assessment is generally done via a platform such as Zoom or Skype. The goal of the assessment is to determine the point where your dog demonstrates an escalation in anxiety .  Now  you know where to start with the desensitization process. 

Management can be comprised of many collaborative components. Doggy day care, pet sitters, neighbors, and friends can help in avoiding more alone time than your dog can currently calmly handle while you work on the issue. 

Lastly, helping your pup to feel more confident and comfortable when by himself is possible via a specific program of desensitization. This means very, very, very slowly you will begin to build alone time duration. You’ll work at a pace that your dog dictates via his body language responses.

At the start it might be desensitizing to your movements—before you even leave the house. Later it may mean working in increments of seconds, then minutes before gradually putting those seconds and minute blocks of time together to get to real, appreciable absences. 

Desensitizing to micro-criteria breaks may look something like this:

Noting and working on pre-departure cues (PDQs) is a key factor too.  Your dog may start to feel anxious before you even leave while you begin getting ready to depart. Exposing your pup slowly and intermittently to the relevant PDQs and adjusting criteria in tiny increments can eventually lead to a dog who is relaxed for longer and longer durations.

Working as a team includes liaising with your veterinarianalso. Often a combination of medication plus behavior modification can help to yield the results you are seeking. The goal of medication  is not to sedate the dog, but  to allow your dog to relax enough to be able to gain some traction on the behavior modification protocol.

Resolution is generally reached via a lengthy process. But, in the end you will feel less trapped and isolated and more calm and confident in the fact that the chronic anxiety often associated with separation anxiety will be replaced by peace in your home.

If your dog is struggling when alone, you can schedule a brief 30 minute (no cost) consult to discuss how I can help! 

https://positiveanimalwellness.com/separation-anxiety/

Does your deaf dog look away, look at you out of the corner of his eye, turn his head in the other direction, or move so he can’t see you when you are giving him a cue? 

Often people say that their deaf dog demonstrates these behaviors when he “doesn’t want to listen.” However in reality, the above described behaviors are known as “appeasement” signals. This is your deaf dog telling you that he is anxious or uncomfortable—probably due to feeling confused or conflicted.

Training equals education and communication and the basis is motivation and communication. Therefore, if your deaf dog appears not to “listen” either the motivation to perform the behavior you have cued isn’t there, he doesn’t understand the cue, or it’s a combination of both scenarios. 

Too, when training you want to keep in mind the three “Ds”: distance, duration, and distraction. For example your dog may be able to respond to the cue for “sit” at home, however might look away when you cue this behavior at the veterinarian’s office. This could be because while your dog understands the cue for sit he has not sufficiently practiced it with this level of distraction or difficulty as yet. 

PRO TIPS: To “proof” your cues and encourage more appropriate responses keep the following in mind:

1. 1. 1. Practice, practice, practice your cues in a low distraction environment, close to your deaf dog first. 
      2. When teaching new cues remember to “label” using your visual (or tactile cues) them as they are happening so that your deaf can make the association between the behavior and the cue.
      3. Be sure that you have a consistent marker system so that you can communicate effectively with your dog when he’s done something that you would like to see more of!
      4. Carry high value reinforcers with you so that after you mark the sought after behavior you can reinforce it—so that it is more likely to be repeated in the future. 
      5. When building new behaviors be certain to mark and reinforce every correct response to the cue.
      6. If your dog does not respond appropriately, take steps backwards to make it easier for your deaf dog to be successful!

Need more help! Contact PAW today! 

Originally posted on DDR

Do you walk your dog or does your deaf dog walk you? Most people enjoy taking their dogs for walks. However if you have a dog who pulls, lunges, or otherwise drags you along, the walk might be a less than pleasant experience.

Teaching your deaf dog to walk nicely on a leash requires patience, consistency, and positive reinforcement training. Training behaviors using positive reinforcement means looking for behaviors that you like, marking them with a visual signal, and then reinforcing them with something your dog is willing to work for.

To start teaching a loose leash walk behavior you will need the following tools:

• a well fitted harness (recommended)

• a 6-8 foot leash

• a visual or tactile marker signal

• a pouch or pocket of high value reinforcers

When training any new behavior you always want to begin in the least distracting environment possible. This might mean starting your loose-lease walking training inside of your house.

If you have not yet taught your deaf dog a marker signal you’ll want to do this first. The marker will be the communication tool which lets your dog know exactly what they have done to earn access to something that they like.

Some people use a thumbs up sign or a five finger “flash.” Every time that you give your dog this signal you are letting them know that you liked the thing that they just did and that they now will get access to something that they enjoy.

To begin I recommend using  small, high value treats. You want the treats that you have available to be small, soft, very exciting for your dog (try cheese, chicken, or hotdogs), and plentiful.

Now that you are prepared with your marker (hand signal) and reinforcers (the treats) we are ready to begin.

STEP ONE: EYE CONTACT The first step is to teach your deaf dog that it is very reinforcing to look at you. Each time that your dog looks at you, mark with your signal, and reinforce with a tiny bit of treat.

STEP TWO: HARNESS Part of loose leash walking is being able to put on the harness while the dog is calm. As you begin to put on your harness, go slowly. Mark and reinforce your dog looking at you and/or remaining calm. If your dog begins to jump up or move around, calmly stop, remove the harness (even if you have almost gotten it on), and wait a moment for your dog to calm down.

Once they are calm, mark and reinforce the calm behavior and try again. You might have to repeat this process several times at the beginning. However, this way your dog will learn that in order to put their harness on (which equals fun/walking), they must remain relaxed.

STEP THREE: WALKING The next phase is to literally take one step and wait. Because you have stopped, your dog will-at some point-likely look in your direction. Mark and reinforce this behavior.

You want to deliver the reinforcer (tiny bit of something yummy) very close by your side (think: the side seam of your pants) so that your dog comes close to you. Then, the leash should be loose (think “J” shaped) and you can mark and reinforce this also!

During the process, any time that your dog checks in with you, mark and reinforce this behavior!

If at any time the leash becomes taught, stop. You also want to teach your dog that pulling does not get him to move forward. In other words don’t allow his pulling to be reinforced with forward movement.

Instead,  stop. If your dog glances back at you, mark and reinforce! If not, begin taking steps backward with your eyes on your dog. Eventually he will turn to look at you. Immediately, mark and reinforce this checkin behavior.

Again, be sure to deliver the reinforcer close to you so you can set your dog up for success by having a loose leash which you can then also mark and reinforce.

Keep in mind that in these early stages,  your walks will likely be much shorter. However, they will also be much more focused on training the behavior that you want to see continue. Too, as your dog catches on to this “game” he will be using his brain to figure out how he might earn reinforcers, which provides mental stimulation and is thus tiring as well.

Set everyone up for success by having short, successful sessions. Mini focused walks in low distraction environments will eventually translate to longer laps in busier areas.

As a re-cap, some final TIPS include:

1. Train & reinforce “checking in with you” behavior.
2. Begin in a low distraction environment.
3. Take it one (literally) step at a time.
4. Mark & reinforce the “j” shaped loose leash.
5.  If the leash is taught, walk backwards & wait for your dog to orient to you-then mark and reinforce that “checkin.”
6. Reinforce close to you so that your dog is close to you.
7. Mark & reinforce behaviors that you like as often as you see them!

Soon with lots of consistent repetition, you and your dog will be strolling comfortably down the road!